Tso Pema

After finally tearing ourselves away from McLeod Ganj we squeezed on a local bus with our Tushita mates Maya and Fred and headed for Tso Pema. They were continuing on to Manali and we were hoping to lock ourselves away for a few weeks to contemplate our belly buttons whilst we try and meditate.

Tso Pema (Lotus lake) is the Tibetan name for this peaceful town, also known as Rewalsar (Indian).

It is the place of Padmasambhava (aka Guru Rinpoche), an amazing Indian yogi. He meditated in caves around here for many years. The people of the town saw him as a dirty, smelly guy that sat around in a cave all day and night, all except for the resident princess, who would go up to his cave to receive teachings. This enraged the king who thought he was up to no good with his daughter so he captured him and tried to burn him. However, he didn't burn and instead he made a lake spring up (see picture below). This miracle so impressed the king that he completely changed his view of the yogi.

The lake - the high point in the top middle of the pic is a giant statue that is being made of Guru Rinpoche.

Here he is close up. It's monsoon so they have to cover up the bit they are working on.

Rob checking out the lake.

The lake is jam packed full of carp which go into a frenzy whenever food is dropped into the water.

Rob clocking up a few mani mantras on the prayer wheels.


This is looking down on the town of Tso Pema after a humid, sweaty one hour uphill climb along a narrow rocky path that wound through small villages. You can see the lake in the middle... We were heading up to the caves where Padmasambhava meditated.


The path we traveled.

This statue in the cave was really huge. Rob and I sat quietly in here for a while. It was really peaceful and cool (it was hot outside) but damp! You have to have a really tough mind to live in a cave for years and years.

This monk lived in a small 'cave' near an impression in the rock of Padmasambhava's shoulder and back. It was a small house made of stones and mud built up against the rock with a tin roof.


Our friend Tomas (right) was friends with Phuntsog Lama (left) so we stopped in for some chai. This is pretty much his whole house. I'm sitting on the bed/ meditation area. I think Rob and Tom were sitting on boxes.....


The chai was good but we also had to eat a whole packet of cardamom (elichi) flavoured biscuits!! Like many cultures, Tibetans aren't happy until you've eaten and/ or drunk everything presented to you!!


The gold kidney shaped mark in the rock to the right was a foot print left by Padmasambhava.

This is a little snap of India. An Indian man, a cow stepping on a snake with a little man pulling its tail and a few monkeys in the background.


Our little retreat place at the Drikung Kagyu monastery served us well. It was in a beautiful garden setting and the monks that delivered our food were so sweet and friendly. I was a little distracted by the monkeys outside my window.....


The day after we arrived, there was a big celebration at a nearby gompa. It was the birthday of the Lama that founded the monastery so there was lots of lama dancing, singing and cake!!!